John Waters' hometown is a haven of mirthy. Crabs are just the beginning.
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You might think it would be hard for Baltimore to live up the raucous, loopy reputation that's its been given in all of John Waters' films. After all, how could a city which has given the world Divine, Mink Stole, Edith Massey and such seminally trashy films like Pink Flamingos, Female Trouble,...
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You might think it would be hard for Baltimore to live up the raucous, loopy reputation that's its been given in all of John Waters' films. After all, how could a city which has given the world Divine, Mink Stole, Edith Massey and such seminally trashy films like Pink Flamingos, Female Trouble, Desperate Living, Pecker and A Dirty Shame live up to its ribald rep? Even Hairspray, the most mainstreamy of all of Waters' films still boasts a wicked, outsider sense of humor, now matter how much it might get cleaned up for Broadway.
But spend a weekend in Baltimore, and amid all of the city's tourist-friendly charms--its shiny Inner Harbor waterfront, the cobblestones and pubs of Fells Point, and the artsy charm of Mount Vernon and Federal Hill and their cultural offerings--you'll still get a sampling of the town's funky charms. Chat up locals at a local tavern and you'll soon get a sampling of the city's down-home, non-fussy vibe. People are frank, but friendly. Strange, but kind of welcoming. And that's the city's best feature. No matter who you are, well-bred or hard-scrabble, you still get messy wielding a hammer and tearing into some amazing fresh crab. And who can resist a cheap beer slung by a salty barkeep, and Baltimore seems to have perfected the salty barkeep type.
There's also a buzzing indie music scene, a fun and thriving queer culture, and just a affable, lack of attitude here that makes it a great weekend getaway. All this said, Baltimore's best assets aren't obvious. They're found while eating a really good crab cake, drinking a hearty beer and enjoying casual conversation--and then maybe dancing around like a crazy person at a gay goth night. Come with these kind of earthy expecations, and you'll be singing "Good Morning Baltimore" in no time.
Ready to roll? Our tips and recommendations of where to stay, what to do and where to chow down will make your trip to Baltimore all the better. Click it!
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Travel Tips: Baltimore
Handy insider stuff you need to know before you go!
Travel Tip #1: Ed Kane's Water Taxis
Getting around the harbor (say, from Fells Point to the Inner Harbor and back) can be done via Ed Kane's Water Taxis. It's not terribly speedy (but not terribly slow, either) and a fun way to see the city. The archaically named...
Travel Tip #2: Those Other Taxis
If you're planning on sampling much of Baltimore's bar scene, you might want to consider staying in the Mount Vernon area, as that's where most of it is located. Grabbing taxis around town is doable (bars and restaurants will...
Hotels: Baltimore
Our tips on the best beds - from cheap to chic - where you can bunk in Baltimore.
Tremont Park Hotel, 8 East Pleasant St., Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-576-1200
Located just south of the gay 'hood Mount Vernon, this basic hotel offers some great views of the city. Up top are roomy penthouses where you can sprawl out (for a price). Single suites from $114.
Harbor Court Hotel, 550 Light St., Inner Harbor, Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-234-0550
A fancier address in Baltimore's Inner Harbor; part of the Intercontinental group. It houses visiting dignitaries, celebs and such. And you, if you're feeling it. Doubles from $298.
Restaurants: Baltimore
When in Baltimore, it's your duty to eat as much fresh crab as humanly possible. But even if crustaceans aren't your thing, there's other good local grub to fuel you.
Zodiac, 1724-26 North Charles St., Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-727-8815
A super-cool retro styled café right across from the artsy Charles movie house. John Waters dines here; you should too. The food is fresh and deliciously inventive. Attached to the way-cool Club Charles bar.
Obrycki's, 1727 East Pratt St., Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-732-6399
This seafood haven in Upper Fells Point boasts an old-school vibe, but the fresh crabs (seasoned with intense Old Bay goodness) are worth a whack at. Friendly staffers can help you order, and instruct you how to bang out the good...
Nightlife: Baltimore
When in town, grab the local gay paper Baltimore Outloud (www.baltimoreoutloud.com) for a guide to what's on.
Grand Central, 1001-03 N. Charles St. (at Eager), Mount Vernon, Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-752-7133
"They have the something-for-everyone thing down," said the Baltimore City Paper of this wildly popular bar and club. Play pool, cruise guys, watch a his-and-her wet underwear contest, show up for a mixed goth night. It's a...
The Hippo, 1 West Eager St (at Charles St.), Mount Vernon, Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-576-0018
Across the intersection from Grand Central, The Hippo is Baltimore's other big bar and dance palace. It also boats a great little karaoke/piano bar in one wing, and hosts crazy drag shows and A-list DJs, too.
Activities: Baltimore
Hot happenings. Outdoorsy options. Mandatory must-sees. Our picks of what you gotta do in Baltimore.
American Visionary Art Museum, 800 Key Highway, Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-244-1900
Folk art gets taken to a new level at this haven for self-taught artists from all over. The scope of the art is global, and the vibe of the museum is "Baltimore wacky." Love the wildflower-filled sculpture outside, the statue of...
The National Great Blacks in Wax Museum, 1601-03 East North Ave., Baltimore, Maryland | P: 410-563-3404
A wax museum committed solely to the study and preservation of African-American history, the Great Blacks in Wax Museum is an impressive, unique treasure and cultural center. See cultural icons rendered artfully in wax (from...
