I'm standing in a bullring in the Andalucian countryside, knotting the red cape with my fingers as the young bull (or
novilho) carefully analyzes me from just 20 feet away. I'm wondering: How did I get myself into this situation? We had just
finished touring the meadows of a thousand-acre estate, akin to a safari as our protected vehicle passed groups of bulls grazing the fields. At the time, they seemed so lackadaisical and uninterested, somewhat influencing my decision when volunteers were prompted in the ring.
Now, I'm truly walking in the matador's
zapatos.
The
novilho stands very still, which is more daunting than it moving about. The sweltering heat enhances my anxiety as the real
torero pushes me forward, calling to the bull because I won't.
"Eh! Eh! Eh!" The young bull, deceptively bovine, finally charges forward and sweeps its head through the cape, its heaving force jerking it from my hands.
"Ole!" The matador shouts and smiles reassuringly at me. Sure, I have no experience in bullfighting, but it was an opportunity offered at this bull ranch at Cortijo de Arenales that I couldn't resist, a chance to take on Spanish culture first-hand.
You don’t have to lock horns with a bull when visiting Andalucia, the southern region of Spain, but you might find the urge. Andalucia is the heartland for most iconic
Spanish traditions that have survived for centuries. In fact, locals will be quick to tell you that while most of Northern Spain has adapted to European culture (ie: Madrid and Barcelona), Andalucia still remains very Spanish. There's not much reason to argue: In addition to bullfighting, it’s here that castanet-rattling gypsies stomped their emotions through dance, founding the popular style of flamenco.
The turn of the century launched Andalucia in the world's eye: Pablo Picasso etched his first drawing in his picturesque hometown (Malaga); Ernest Hemingway, mesmerized by the region, wrote about it (Pamplona); and director Orson Welles requested that his ashes be scattered here (Ronda). Furthermore, Andalucia dangled a carrot in the form of cuisine, impacting international gastronomy. The British became obsessed with sherry, originally from Jerez; and worldwide, trendy restaurants continue to create tapas-inspired menus, an Andalucian concept originated in Seville. Olive oil (Cordoba), a native export, is so common that you'll be hard-pressed to find butter at any restaurant.
The Moors’ reign in the former half of the last millennium was instrumental in the architecture, culture, language and gastronomy of Andalucia today, consequentially defining its “un-European” character. Strong Islamic roots remain prominent in the region, most notably apparent in the three main cities: Seville, Cordoba and Granada.
Seville
Visitors get a real snapshot of Andalucia in Seville, as it unarguably encapsulates the region's identity: Orange trees lining the streets; ubiquitous mantillas and abanicos (Spanish fans) decorate walls; bustling sidewalk cafes abound; centuries-old palaces and churches are everywhere. Arabian influence is found in the narrow streets and primarily in the city's historic center, the largest in all of Europe. The Real Alcazar, a flamboyant 3-building royal palace built in the 13th century, is the main highlight.
Just a stroll away is the impressive cathedral, built over the main mosque of the 9th-century and currently the largest Gothic building in the world.
History fans will appreciate the Columbus Library, which preserves millions of original maps, documents and literature of the New World voyage (Seville is where Columbus docked after his discovery of the Americas). Some documents (Columbus' letters detailing his discoveries, original passenger lists) are so delicate they are kept in special storage to prevent from disintegration.
Some of Seville's best attractions are discovered by simply wandering the labyrinth of streets, sampling tapas at outdoor cafes and enjoying the variety of shops. I navigated the Santa Cruz district at a leisurely pace, admiring the non-purist architecture Seville is famous for. Buildings harbor various styles-gothic, classic and Christian and Muslim-that reflect the history of all the important cultures of Spain, with prime examples along Constitutional Ave. The Campanas district is popular for shopping, whether looking for souvenirs such as castanellas or abanicos, or hitting major Spanish retailers (found worldwide) like Zara and Camper.
A (very late) nightcap of regional drink fino was called for in the Alhambra, the percolating nightlife district where a handful of gay bars lure locals and tourists alike.
Where to stay in Seville? Try Hotel Petit Palace Marques Santa Ana. It's a modern boutique in the city center and a five-minute stroll to the major attractions. The central atrium brings in tons of natural light into the lobby and great design abounds. Rooms begin at around $222.
