GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL STORIES

Montreal

Montreal, Quebec's largest city (and the second largest in Canada after Toronto), is steeped in a braided French and English heritage both past and present. Yet for all its bifurcation of culture, architectural influence, and language (though

French is the official tongue, English is spoken a close second), it is a city notable more for a sense of solidarity than cultural divide. This island city of just over 1.8 million rallies together over their favorite sport (Hockey, mais oui--Go Habs!) as passionately as they bond over the ferocity of their cruel winters.

Unity through diversity, after all, is what makes supremely gay-friendly Montreal such a rich and rewarding travel destination, from its mind-blowing shopping options to its nightlife to most especially its dizzying array of dining experiences, where eating out is the city's finest form of entertainment. As we ate our way through Montreal, we found new appreciation for the city's palate, as well as its taste. (Even our wonderful stay at the Hotel Opus Montreal (10 Rue Sherbrooke West, 514.843.6000)--right on the border of the Plateau neighborhood--was highlighted by a superior breakfast buffet, as well as cocktail-hour canapes in the bar.)

First we headed off to see where Montreal's cooks find many of their ingredients: a visit the Atwater Market (138 Avenue Atwater, 514.937.7754) and the Jean-Talon Market (7075 Avenue Casgrain, 514.277.1379), two of Montreal's several noteworthy food markets. Atwater is located in the southeastern section of the city, around the corner from David MacMillan's and Frederic Morin's culinary hotspots Joe Beef (2491 Rue Notre-Dame West, 514.935.6504) and Liverpool House (2501 Rue Notre Dame West, 514.313.6049). Jean-Talon is in the north-central part of the city near Montreal's Little Italy district. Both markets are bursting to the gills with all the local produce and products one could hope for. From fresh breads and pastries to their vast array of seasonal fruits and vegetables, the markets also have well-regarded specialty stores. La Fromagerie Atwater is the top-shelf cheese shop in Montreal. At Jean-Talon, do not miss the Isabelle Drouin's Quebec-centric Marche de Saveurs (280 Place du Marche-du-nord, 514.271.3811), a store specializing only in local foodie fare, from local wines and microbrews to charcuterie artisanal cheeses--including "Grand Manitou" (a three-cheese blend of goat, sheep, and cow's milk) and sharp cheddars aged longer than Rene Angelil. (Fun fact: Quebec produces over 350 artisanal cheeses!)

Montreal's thriving Jewish community has spawned its own mini-gastro industry, no player more visible than Schwartz's (3895 Saint-Laurent Boulevard, 514.842.4813), a traditional Montreal delicatessen that packs in customers all day long. The draw here is the spice-rubbed smoked meat--a slightly different take on the cured meat one will find stateside. If you're not prepared to wait the queue out the door, however, skip the lines and head right across the street The Main (3864 Saint-Laurent Boulevard, 514.843.8126); they have equally succulent smoked meat sandwiches, matzoh balls to die for, and potato varenekes (fried perogi-like dumplings that are light and flavorful in equal measure).

And then there is the Great Montreal Bagel War. There's nothing wrong with a little healthy competition, exemplified by the city's two bagel-baking dynasties, Fairmount Bagels (74 Avenue Fairmount West, 514.272.0667) and St. Viateur Bagels (263 St. Viateur Rue West, 514. 276.8044). Montreal bagels are generally smaller, cake-ier and denser, with Fairmount's far sweeter than a New York bagel, while St. Viateur's tend toward the salty. How fierce is the competition? Both stores are open 24/7--Fairmount doesn't even have a lock on their door, since they never, ever close. The winner of our bagel pool? St. Viateur's!

Both bagel shops are located in the Mile End neighborhood of Montreal, which--along with the Plateau and Little Italy neighborhoods--provides endless foodie delights. A stroll up St.-Laurent and St.-Denis streets is a must; the former featuring a motley mix of shops and ethnic fare, while the latter provides a more refined variety stores, including the delightful tea house Au Festin de Babette (4085 Rue St-Denis, 514.849.0214).

For an unpretentious meal in the area, try Les Cons Servent (5064 Avenue Papineau, 514.523.8999). A loud and cheery bistro, the mixed and animated crowd keeps things lively as you dine on a mixture of traditional and offbeat dishes including fanciful crepes and tender scallop, pork, and beef mains. The real treat here is the formidable imported wine selection, including a colorful array of after-dinner digestifs that will send you merrily on your way.

For more information about Montreal, as well as more on tasty travels throughout all of Canada, visit the Canadian Tourism website.