GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL STORIES

Safari in Kenya

My safari team and I are roaming the sun-swept savannah of Kenya, looking for fresh elephant dung. I'm not going to lie: It's quite different for a typical morning drive but equally unusual are the statuesque giraffes chomping on branches and the

Kenya Safari See Photos

ubiquitous wildebeasts grazing the dry grass.

Our eight-passenger, window-free jeep decelerates to the discovery of a recently dropped mound piling near the ravine. "It's nice and fresh," says my native guide, Phillip. "The elephants must be close." Predatorily, we scour the bushes with cameras and binoculars in hands. I don't immediately see the elephant when Phillip directs our attention, but it finally materializes in the thickness of trees, its solid white tusk protruding like a crooked tooth, a long trunk pulling at branches and delivering them to its hidden mouth. Awestruck, I raise my camera to get the money shot although I know this powerful moment can't possibly be translated in a photo.

As you might have already guessed, there's nothing mundane about a trip to Kenya. With one visit, you'll more than likely be inspired by the people, the strong heritage and safari adventures. Kenya burgeons with cultural excitement, whether interacting with indigenous tribes or exploring the cosmopolitan city of Nairobi. The big draw, and with good reason, is the untrained wildlife in their natural setting, promising some profound moments like my elephant sighting, a much-sought encounter that's as overwhelming as the size of the species.

And, despite their massiveness, elephants are only a fraction of the exotic creatures you'll discover.

Masai_Mara—the region we traversed—unleashed a chockfull of wildlife the moment we donned our safari hats. Zebras, giraffes, baboons, wildebeests and gazelles abound, often within several feet of our Land Rover. Spotting the “Big Five” (lions, elephants, rhinos, leopards and buffalo) was twice as rewarding as these animals required more effort to track down. Uncommon birds soared above while the animals—some curiously attentive like the giraffe, others indifferent like the elephant and some alert to our presence like the lions—brought action to the dry land.

Comprising one of the world's highest concentrations of wildlife, the Maasai region is also popular for the Maasai tribe, their culture spanning thousands of years. Once dominant in East Africa, they are now outnumbered by the contemporary lifestyle. However, they still own the land we trekked and, as a welcoming gesture, invited my safari group to one of their small villages. We were forewarned by Phillip: A major culture shock was guaranteed.

The tribe greeted us outside their fenced-in community by the small entrance, a security detail to restrict large animals. Inside, small children playfully observed our visit as wild, tattered chicks ran amok through the natives' five-foot huts made of branches and cow dung. Under a hot African sun, the tribesmen performed a traditional warrior song and dance before we explored their 100-square-meter village (which was like wandering a live, interactive museum). Adhering to a loosely-strict cultural lifestyle that lacks material concerns, the Maasai are poverty-stricken by Western standards but undeniably happy by theirs. We were then encouraged to browse their "gift shop," a concept just as shocking as their hole-in-the-ground toilets.

A vast extreme from their habitat was our camp. Recently acquired by Fairmont, Mara Safari Club is a 50-room luxury resort, all deluxe tents (cabins) equipped with four-poster beds lined with fine linen drapes and decks facing the hippopatamus-laden Mara River. I spent hours exploring the parameters (bound by the river on three sides to form a mini-peninsula), attracted by the high quality of amenities. Personal service was impressive as attendants were seemingly everywhere to assist, whether helping with bird identification or serving cocktails at the pool.

Travelers seeking a truly bareboned experience (sans the pampering) take the 45-minute commuter flight from Nairobi to Campi Ya Kanzi in Chyulu Hills. If you plan on visiting, leave your Blackberry at home. Deep in the heart of Kenya's eastern terrain, the 10-cabin camp is serious about retreat: There's no phone service, no internet and no outdoor electric lighting. Heat is solar-powered, and water is fetched every morning from the Tsavo river to be filtered on premises. Not only have the owners ensured complete guest appreciation of the sanctuary intended, they're also key players in local wildlife conservation. Ecotourism is a top priority on premises, reflected in the camp's Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust, which fights poaching and destruction of protected plants and trees, as well as providing assistance with employment, education and medical care for the community.